Last is the Julius Studio, which is another crossbar set up that spans up to 10 ft. Like the others, this one also comes with a carry bag and the necessary clamps for securing your backdrop of choice. Also, like the others, this one is made of lightweight tubing that makes it easy to carry. Lastly, while users said this was easy to set up and use, they recommend using sandbags or some other type of weight to keep the system secure due to the light weight of the tubing.
I just got this today and attached it to my back drop stand using A Clamps across the top. There are some crease marks where it was folded so I will try various tricks I found on the internet to get them out, hopefully, without melting or ruining it. I didn't give it 5 stars because it is a little small at 5'x7' for anything but a seated subject. That's not the sellers fault as it clearly states 5'x7' but I would definitely recommend it if it were 6'x9' or larger. Even with the folded creases, it works well out of the box.
If you’d like to do a little further reading, here are a couple of links to tutorials that I found helpful before trying this myself. Prop Insanity has a great one with pictures of their actual studio set up using this type of background and Digitial Photography School has a great article on How to Take Beautiful Bokeh Christmas Images . (Bokeh being that gorgeous background blur we all love). You can also check out my Photography board on pinterest for more ideas. If you do try this, I would LOVE to see your finished product so please come share with us on Facebook.
The main cause of this working is distance. Notice how close the subject is standing to the background and how far away the main light is from the subject. In this example, the subject is approximately 2 feet from the backdrop and the main light is approximately 4 feet from the subject. If you're new to this, I would recommend starting with your main light a bit further back to make it a little less challenging. You will see why in a second.
In summary, the key factors to getting the backdrop and subject lit in a similar exposure zone is distance; The distance of the subject to the background and the distance of the light source to the subject. Decrease the distance of the subject to background and increase the distance of the main light to the subject to make this easier. The key factor for getting a soft and directional quality to the light is also distance, but it's the opposite. By getting the light closer to the subject, we can create a softer light with more directional qualities. Also remember that these qualities of the light are relative to the size of the light source. If you are using a smaller light source, you will need to get it in closer to hold those transitional values. If you are using a larger light source, you may be able to get your light further back and still hold those soft-light qualities. Also, if the examples and basic principles here make sense to you, you have kind of just learned the inverse square law!
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